By Ken Shimamoto 

These days, I don’t eat very much fried chicken, but it wasn’t always so. When I first hit town and was an assistant manager at the old Peaches Records & Tapes at 6393 Camp Bowie Blvd, I used to railroad counting the receipts and making up the deposits on nights when I closed so that I’d make it to one of three possible spots in time to enjoy the golden brown, greasy goodness of batter-dipped, deep-fried yardbird before they shut down for the night.  

My chicken of choice at the time was Church’s, then newly opened at the intersection of Lackland Road and Highway 80 and since replaced by I-forget-what (don’t make it out that way very much anymore). Back then, Church’s offered the biggest pieces of chicken of any of the fast-food chicken joints, and theirs was so remarkably tender and juicy that we were sure it must have been pressure-cooked (or something). As I say, this was more than a coupla weeks ago. 

Second choice (if Church’s was closed) was the KFC on the Weatherford traffic circle, now also closed and if it weren’t I wouldn’t go there anyway (I’ve read too many KFC atrocity stories). Last was Edmonson’s at Horne and Curzon, which only recently folded the tent. Somebody once told me that Ornette Coleman’s sister worked there, which was probably bullshit, and they were famous for their piece-of-stale-white-bread-soaked-in-brown-grease-at-the-top-of-the box, but I scarfed my share of Edmonson’s in my day. At least. 

Today I had some time to kill before a dental appointment and was hungry, so I fell by Lisa’s Fried Chicken at 500 N. University Drive. They’ve got chicken in all its forms at Lisa – besides actual chicken pieces, there are tenders, hot wings, nuggets, livers and gizzards, too -- plus fried catfish and chicken fried steaks and a few items (pizza pockets, corn dogs, and burritos) for people laboring under the delusion that 7 Eleven is a restaurant. 

Seriously, though, there’s a lot to like about Lisa’s. For one thing, they’ve got the big, juicy pieces of chicken, reasonably priced – two mixed pieces and a roll for $2.39; three mixed pieces with cole slaw, okra, a jalapeno and a drink only set me back a five spot. When we’re both in the mood, my sweetie and I can get right on ten mixed pieces and five rolls for $7.99. Their okra and slaw won’t make Zeke’s lose any sleep but are just fine for the price; next time I’ve gotta try the corn nuggets. Green beans are a thoughtful inclusion on the menu for folks who’re trying not to eat all fried food for lunch. Plus they’re locally owned. What’s not to like?