Flying Fish hooks seafood fans in Cowtown

In a place called Cowtown, it only makes sense that one of the few fast-casual seafood restaurants would be located right across the street from a barbecue joint. Flying Fish is a deep sea cast or two away from the Railhead Smokehouse on Montgomery Street at the Vickery intersection, and it has the goods to lure you away from brisket and ribs, at least for a night or two each week.

Owned by DFW restaurant whisperer Shannon Wynne (Flying Saucer, Bird Cafe and Rodeo Goat), Flying Fish feels like a lakeside seafood joint you’d find in East Texas, but it’s plopped right in the heart of landlocked Fort Worth. Customers are invited to post their fish photos on the Liar’s Wall, and the collection of orphaned Billy Basses seems to grow every time we go. If you donate one, you get a free basket of catfish. 

I prefer my fried catfish resting inside a corn tortilla in the fish tacos (3 for $11.99). This is my go-to dish at the Fish, because the tacos come topped with coleslaw, like a Memphis barbecue sammitch, as well as pico de gallo. My sweetie, being health-conscious, tends to favor the grilled plates, the god-king of which is the “protein platter,” consisting of two grilled fillets (options include rainbow trout, salmon, tilapia, red snapper, or grouper) or a single filet with six boiled shrimp or a dozen oysters on the half shell, grilled veggies, beans and rice. It’s $19.99 and great to share with your first mate.

Flying Fish, which is now up to 7 DFW locations and 11 total, has baskets galore — from oysters to shrimp to frogs legs. There’s also salads with seafood on the menu, plus po’ boys, and even a burger with fries for the finicky, fish averse.

For dessert, there’s key lime pie, which is always a plus in my book.

Flying Fish, 2913 Montgomery Street, Fort Worth. (817) 989-227 (BASS).

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